Chainsaws are by a long way the most dangerous tool most UK gardeners will ever own. That is not a reason to avoid them – a well-handled chainsaw can do in ten minutes what a hand saw and sheer determination would take three hours – but it is a reason to take training, technique and PPE seriously before you start.
This is our complete guide to using a chainsaw safely in a UK setting. It is written for the home gardener, allotment holder, smallholder or weekend firewood cutter – not the full-time arborist, but the kind of user who might cut up a fallen branch, reduce a hedge or process some logs for the wood burner. If you are paid for chainsaw work, or if you plan to fell trees over about 380 mm diameter, you legally need NPTC certification and you should stop reading this article and book a course.
Before You Switch On: The Non-Negotiables
1. Proper PPE Every Time
No exceptions. The minimum kit for any chainsaw work in the UK is:
- Chainsaw trousers or chaps rated Class 1 (Type A for ground work). These are layered with Kevlar-style fibres that clog the chain and stop it in milliseconds if it touches them.
- Chainsaw boots with steel toecaps and cut-resistant material around the foot and shin.
- A head protection system – either a forestry helmet with integral ear defenders and mesh visor, or a well-fitted helmet with separate ear defenders and safety glasses.
- Gloves rated for chainsaw use (chainsaw-resistant on the left hand as a minimum).
- A high-visibility outer layer if you are working near roads, paths or on shared land.
A full kit costs around £200-£300 and will last many years. It is the single best investment you can make if you are planning to own a chainsaw.
2. Know Your Saw
Read the manual. Identify the throttle trigger, trigger lockout, chain brake, chain catcher, bar nose and choke. Know how to fill the fuel and chain oil, how to tension the chain correctly, and how to engage the chain brake manually. If you do not understand any of these parts, do not start cutting.
3. Never Work Alone for Serious Jobs
Have someone nearby – ideally within voice range – when you are cutting anything larger than a branch. They do not need to be trained themselves; they just need to be able to call 999 if something goes wrong.
4. Consider a One-Day Course
Lantra-accredited or NPTC-based introductory chainsaw courses cost around £150-£250 for a day and cover exactly the skills that stop new users cutting themselves. If you plan to own a saw for more than a season, do the course.
Pre-Cut Checklist
Run through this list every single time you pick up the saw. It takes less than two minutes and will prevent most common accidents.
- PPE on and fastened correctly.
- Chain sharp? Run a finger lightly across the cutters (wearing a glove). A blunt chain is more dangerous than a sharp one – it forces you to push harder and invites kickback.
- Chain tension right? You should be able to lift the chain off the bar at the middle by 3-5 mm; it should snap back freely.
- Chain oil reservoir full? The chain needs a fresh supply constantly; running dry will quickly damage the bar and cause smoke.
- Fuel fresh (petrol) or battery at least half charged (cordless)?
- Chain brake working? Push the guard forward with your left hand – the chain should be locked solid.
- Working area clear? No loose branches, pets, children, or trip hazards within two tree lengths.
- Escape route planned? You should know where you will step if the wood moves unexpectedly.
Understanding Kickback
Kickback is the single biggest cause of serious chainsaw injuries. It happens when the top quadrant of the bar nose touches wood while the chain is moving, or when the chain in the cut is pinched suddenly. The saw rotates violently upwards and backwards, often towards the user’s face and chest.
Three rules will prevent 95% of kickback incidents:
- Never cut with the upper half of the bar nose.
- Never plunge-cut unless you have been specifically trained to do so.
- Keep your left thumb wrapped fully around the front handle so the chain brake can engage if the saw jumps.
Modern saws have low-kickback chains and chain brakes, but these reduce, not eliminate, the risk. Your technique is still the most important safety feature.
Holding the Saw Correctly
Left hand wraps fully around the front handle, with the thumb underneath. Right hand grips the rear handle, with the thumb on top near the trigger. Arms slightly bent, shoulders down. The saw should be held close to your body rather than at arm’s length, and your hips should face the cut – not your shoulders.
Stand with your feet shoulder-width apart, left foot slightly forward. Weight slightly forward on the balls of your feet. Never straddle the saw, and never cut above shoulder height from the ground.
Cutting Techniques for Common Garden Jobs
Cutting a Fallen Branch (Bucking)
Check which side is in compression and which is in tension. A branch resting on the ground at both ends is under compression on the top and tension on the bottom – if you cut straight down from the top, the wood will pinch your saw as the cut closes.
The safe technique is to make a shallow cut on the compression side first (say, 1/3 of the way through from the top), then finish the cut from the tension side. When the two cuts meet, the branch will fall cleanly without pinching.
Limbing a Fallen Tree
Stand on the opposite side of the trunk from the limb you are cutting. Use the trunk as a shield. Cut small limbs with a smooth, single stroke; cut larger limbs from the underside first if they are supporting weight.
Cross-cutting Logs for Firewood
Use a log horse (saw horse designed for chainsaw use) or a low cradle that holds the log steady. Never rest the log on your foot or your thigh. Cut downwards through the log with the bumper spikes pressed into the wood, using the bumper as a pivot.
Felling a Small Tree (under 150mm diameter)
Small trees can be felled with a simple hinge cut. Plan the direction of fall – aim for a gap free of buildings, fences and powerlines, with an escape path at roughly 45 degrees backwards and to the side. Make a notch cut on the fall side (1/4 to 1/3 of the trunk diameter), then a straight back cut from the opposite side, leaving a 25-50 mm hinge of uncut wood. As the tree starts to move, put the saw down and step back along your escape path.
Do not attempt to fell anything larger without formal training. Trees have a habit of going where they were not supposed to, and UK insurance policies are rarely kind about untrained felling work.
Fuel, Oil and Servicing
Fuelling a Petrol Saw
- Only refuel on bare ground (grass or soil, not paving), well away from any ignition source.
- Let the saw cool for at least two minutes before opening the fuel cap.
- Wipe the cap area clean before opening, so no dust drops into the tank.
- Use fresh two-stroke mix at the ratio your saw requires (50:1 for most Stihl and Husqvarna).
- Move at least 3 metres from the refuelling spot before starting the saw.
Chain Oil
Use a proper biodegradable chain oil wherever possible – it is kinder to soil, water and anything living nearby. In cold UK winters, a thinner chain oil flows better. Old engine oil is a popular shortcut but it is not sticky enough, and it pollutes the ground unnecessarily.
Sharpening
A sharp chain throws proper wood chips. A dull chain throws fine sawdust. Sharpen the chain when the chips start getting smaller, or after about one hour of cutting through clean wood. A round file the correct diameter for your chain (3/16″, 5/32″ or similar) will do the job in five minutes. A basic sharpening kit costs around £15 and is one of the best tools you will own.
Storage and Transport
- Store the saw in a dry shed with a scabbard (bar cover) on.
- Remove batteries from cordless saws and store them indoors, ideally at 40-60% charge.
- Empty the fuel tank on a petrol saw if it will be unused for more than 30 days; run the carburettor dry to prevent varnish build-up.
- In the car, always use a scabbard and restrain the saw so it cannot slide into a passenger.
- Remove the battery or empty the fuel before any long transport.
UK Law and Common Sense
In the UK, you do not legally need a licence to use a chainsaw on your own land as a domestic user. However, HSE guidance and the Work at Height Regulations make it clear that anyone operating a chainsaw at work – including self-employed tree surgeons and contractors – must hold the relevant NPTC/Lantra qualification for the task. If you are cutting on your own land but under instruction from a professional, or paying someone to supervise the work, insist on seeing their certification.
If you hire a tree surgeon, they must hold at least CS30, CS31 (felling small trees) and, for climbing work, CS38 or CS39. Professional insurance of £5 million public liability is standard; ask for proof.
Working Near Power Lines and Structures
Never attempt to cut branches that are within 5 metres of live overhead power lines. Call your DNO (distribution network operator) free-of-charge and they will isolate the line for you. Similarly, avoid felling trees that are within one tree-length of a house, fence or car – call a certified tree surgeon instead.
When to Stop
A chainsaw amplifies every tiny mistake into a serious one when you are tired. If you find yourself:
- Gripping the saw with straight arms and locked shoulders
- Forcing the chain into the wood instead of letting it cut under its own weight
- Feeling your hands shake when you release the trigger
- Getting frustrated at slow progress
Stop. Put the saw down with the chain brake on. Have a drink of water and a five-minute rest. The job will still be there when you come back, and you will cut better for the break.
First Aid and Emergency Planning
Always have a proper chainsaw first aid kit on site. A minimum kit should contain:
- A large haemostatic dressing (e.g. Celox or QuikClot) for arterial bleeding
- Standard pressure dressings
- A foil blanket for shock
- Sterile eye-wash
- A mobile phone with a known signal location
Before you start cutting, note your exact location – what3words is excellent for this. If you call 999 and cannot describe where you are, seconds matter and they add up to life-changing consequences.
When to Call a Professional
Please do not be afraid to hand a job to a qualified arborist. The following jobs need professional kit and certification, and no amount of YouTube videos will make you safe enough:
- Any tree over 380mm trunk diameter
- Trees close to buildings, boundaries, power lines, or the road
- Trees that are dead, diseased or storm-damaged
- Any cutting above shoulder height from ground level
- Anything that involves climbing with a saw
A good tree surgeon will finish an awkward job in a couple of hours for £200-£600, and do it without risking a trip to hospital. That is good value whichever way you look at it.
Final Word
A chainsaw is not a tool to be feared, but it is a tool to be respected. Dress for it, maintain it, use it with good technique, and walk away when you are tired. Do those four things, and a decent home chainsaw will serve you for decades without ever drawing blood.
When you are ready to buy, see our Best Chainsaw UK 2026 and Best Cordless Chainsaw UK 2026 reviews for current model recommendations. And if you are torn between the two big brands, our Husqvarna vs STIHL comparison will help you decide.